electricspells

The Great Southern Expedition :: Day 7

Friday, 25 November

Our first day in Queensland wasn’t conspicuous so much for its burning sun as its bitter cold winds. The first blast of the day took with it Mary’s face flannel and though we searched in the bush, it seemed to have been taken right out of range. So we filled her flask with hot coffee for a change and tool off on the 80 miles of bitumen to Mt Isa.

Alfred excelled himself on this stretch and only ran out of petrol (after the Frewena fill-up) – when we were well within sight of town – about 2 miles to go and somewhere round 35 to the gallon according to the Shell map reckoning, though Alfred himself is inclined to exaggerate over the mileage he does.

We did our usual tour of the town and finished up by the Post Office. While Kath and I were still in, a most obliging gentleman came up to Mary and introduced himself as the Shell agent – was three anything could do for us? He started by screwing on our petrol cap we had left off when we topped up outside town and then went on to tell us of a good place for a meal over on the Mineside. Wonder how he guessed we were travellers?

By the time we had got across to the bulk supply depot and were eating particularly nice tender rump steaks (my own really quite raw for once) together with fresh bread and butter and in clean surroundings. We were revising our opinions of Mt Isa and seeing a different side of it from our first lazy [smoky?] view.

Then we went back to town to get Alfred fixed up – he had woken up this morning with a flat – in our new Tennant Creek tyre. The first garage – Austin agents – said they were sorry but they couldn’t do anything before Tuesday next... So we tried the [Banly?] Motors who were quite a different story and got four men on to the job at once.

Presently, one of them came up to me and said “this belongs to you” – gave me a handful of stones and bits of wire which the T/Ck mechanic had so kindly introduced into the [cover?] when changing the new tyre.

Our next stop was Norm Brunskill’s(late of Darwin) where we accumulated dark glasses and a new inside for my thermos (blown off Alfred’s bonnet during the night). Norm invited us back to their house for a shower and we found ourselves staying to supper of stew. Another married couple – friends of theirs were there – Reg an accountant.

The town is divided into Mineside and Townside and with the Mines paying such a huge lead bonus – £9-5-0 – the townside people find it difficult to get staff, though Reg said he paid nearly Mines’ wages which must be difficult for him. Accommodation seems to be just about the same as Darwin – only the MIM provider it and even then not every Mines employee can get it straight away – which means living in one of the two hotels – hideously expensive.

By this stage it was dark and none of us had any photographs so we tried to decide as we left the town whether to drive out the 10 odd miles of good road or whether to camp near town and “pop in early the next morning for a few quick photographs”. Eventually when I found I had to return anyhow with a letter for the 6 am post, we decided on the latter.

It really is pathetic just what unfailing optimism we maintain throughout this trip. The speed of our travel today never mars our plans for the distance we will conquer tomorrow. And so we are happy that we will be able to be well away again from Mount Isa by 9:00 am at the latest.

Mount Isa at night is really rather beautiful – the mine looks like a ship in soil and as much as the slag heap dominates the town by day so does the mass of lights at night. I made a couple of attempts to photograph it, but fear they may not be too successful.

By this time the cold was really settling in. Mary had suggested we should light a huge fire and have hot rum and Milo. This seemed like a good idea, but when we reached our camping site, the wind was raging so much that even a fire didn’t seem tempting enough to draw us outside Alfred just for the Hell of it. So we sat inside and drank cold rum and Milo and Thurza’s biscuits and reflected on how last might we couldn’t bear to sit anywhere near the fire because it was so hot.

If we were beginning to think this was not the best time of year to travel, tonight was enough to convince us that it is. Kath and Mary braved the elements and I stayed inside Alfred - half way through, I had to shut the back door to get warm...

I should remark perhaps on the country we came through – still flat, but timbered today and with a good few rock outcrops.

Friday, 25 November 1955

Next catastrophe – flat tyre – probably old tube from near blow-out which Tennant Creek man forgot to replace. Had breakfast after rising at 6.30am and cleaned out our food boxes. Quite a lot of friendly traffic passed this morning – one almost caught Marye in her bra. She seemed quite a bit perturbed when I attracted their attention with a “good morning” wave! Set forth to Mt Isa at 9.30am. Lovely cool, overcast morning with still a strong wind blowing – ideal for travelling. Back among the timbered country now – mostly mulga trees, although still plenty of spinifex.

Had elevenses at 11am! of hot coffee and Thurza’s biscuits – quite civilised again. Refilled petrol tank a couple of miles from Mt Isa. Approach to Mt Isa very pleasant through hills. First glimpse for us was not encouraging, especially as the wind blew the sulphur fumes from the Mine out to meet us – “Oh no!” we thought in unison “not for us this smoky mining town!” However, after about half an hour in the township our ideas began to change. Firstly, Bob Flemming, Shell Agent, picked us as travellers and made himself known to us, offering any assistance he could. He proved most helpful and suggested that we lunch at the Mt Isa Mines Club, which we did – a wonderful meal of steak, onions, peas, lettuce, for 4/9, followed by ice-cream and flavouring for 1/- – yummie!

Off then in search of garage, shops etc. First garage said very kindly “We could fit you in next Tuesday” (today being Friday!) so off we went to another one – this time it was all hands to the job – Barkly Motors – wonderful service – cheap too. Discovered numerous stones and pieces of wire left in tyre by Tennant Creek garage – no wonder we had a flat. Next we looked up Norman Brunskill (ex Darwin pharmacist, now Mt Isa pharmacist). Norm was most helpful as usual and suggested we might like a shower and cup of tea etc. How right he was! Joan came and called for us and drove us to their home, after calling at the ‘opposition’ for some films (he charged us 10/- too little – poor man!) After cleaning up at Joan’s, we had tea and biscuits and by that time the men had arrived from work. The Mullers, another young married couple, friends of Brunskills’ were there too. Had a couple of beers and decided to accept their invitation for tea. It was bitterly cold (to us) and we were glad not to have to cook in the open. Left at 7.15pm, water bags and bottles refilled.

Couldn’t make up our minds whether to go to Cloncurry (or half way) or whether to camp near Mt Isa and go back next morning for photos – which we had missed taking. Helen remembered she had a letter which must catch the mail so that decided it. Returned to the township, sat and looked at the mine by night – reminded us of a ship in dock – very much glamorised by night. Headed back along Cloncurry road and camped by roadside among low shrubby bushes. Warmed ourselves against the icy blast with rum and milo, crawled right into my sleeping bag and slept like a log.