Still writing most horribly after the event – today being Friday – and have had to be orientated with the help of Kath’s own diary and Mary’s log.
We were woken as usual by the sun and the flies – most insidious little flies here – really insidious because they have all the power and sting of a March fly and are about half the size.
Straight after breakfast we drove back the odd mile to the Cemetery, which we covered in about the same time it had taken the [Donds?] bus that had passed us earlier that morning. The next stop was Larrimah where we had not a beer, but a lemonade, followed by a shower, (not as directed by the barman, in the Men’s where there was from the sounds of things already a man, but in the “Reserved for Boarders” women’s bathroom) – hard water but utterly blissful nonetheless – We really seem to be living that the moment from beer to beer and from shower to shower. We made a swift return after half a mile and I collected my watch from the windowsill – neglecting however to pick up my lipstick from the handbasin.
Our next stop was enforced and at first a bit worrying. We became suddenly aware of a loud [bang?] sounding like a flat, but the wheel was not pulling and when we got out and looked, the tyres were up. We resumed travel but still with the [bump?] which seemed to be right under the floorboards. Began to have real horrors then and visualised all sorts of horrible things happening to the diff or big ends or some such. Then just as Kath and Mary were beginning to think of flying to Melbourne while I was contemplating the possibility of finding employment at Larrimah, some bright spark noticed that although we had no flat we had one tyre with a huge [mimays?] on it side and canvas showing through on the little fringe - must have been the nearest thing to a blowout that ever happened. Vast relief all round and we changed the wheel – putting us at one back to our pre-Larrimah bath state.
But only a few miles further on the nicest and most miraculous thing happened. We found Eyebrows tearing along the road towards us and then Bill [Gartner?] leant out and said, “would you kids like a cold beer?” Bill of course had been looking out for us since Tennants – he had left Alice on Sunday, done a day’s business and stopped for some shooting and wondered where the we had got to.
We had some pistol practice and then toasted each other with brandy on the rocks (far nicer than rum ditto) and departed on [ranom?] ways. Us with two De Gray type comics donated by Bill’s friend.
We had lunch at the Daly Waters turn off and then descended on the Chadders where we had a very pleasant interlude. After we had attended to our inevitable washing, we learnt from Betty over afternoon tea that [they?] like D/Waters surprisingly enough – life seems to be one long beery party, far more hectic than Darwin. Occasioned mostly by passer by though. In fact, we were lucky to get away at 5 o’clock as we did - especially since it was Ron’s birthday.
We decided it might be rather a bright idea if we could have a famous Renner Springs steak for breakfast. Bill had said have excellent [thing?] [there?] and that we could have a simply wonderful shower there. So we drove till dark, had a swift soup and carried on to camp by the road about 30 miles from Renner Springs (Mary is saying “Stop. Stop. We won’t have time for a shower.” So I will.)
Rose at 6.30am (I did with Marye close behind me) Helen sleeps on! Scouted round for water – only muddy pools beside highway – had breakfast and after a quick look at the Cemetery continued on to Larrimah for a shower and to refill our water containers. All went beautifully for an hour or so, when suddenly thump! thump! thump! “Any pull on the wheel?” asked Helen (I was driving) “No, none at all” – I had also wondered what it was all about. Stopped and examined all tyres – all appeared quite normal – decided to try again – holding our breaths and imagining all sorts of things – there it was again – thump! thump! worse than ever. Oh golly! Whatever is it? Another halt and when we examined Alfred this time, there it was, a huge gumboil on his back offside tyre – the closest thing to a blow-out I have ever seen! Tyre change – no shade either!
Continued on our way for several miles feeling rather hot and grubby when a familiar car appeared on the horizon – none other than Bill Gartner, and the first words he uttered were “Hi kids - like a nice cold beer?” Surely he was heaven sent. Spent a half an hour or so with him, shot from his ‘Luger’ pistol, and he sent us on our way with Brandy and water and ice – most refreshing.
Had lunch on roadside just outside Daly Waters then called in on Betty and Ron Chadder. First a welcome glass of iced water, then washed out our clothes followed by afternoon tea. By that time Ron had returned and we had a couple of beers for his birthday. Very pressing invitation to stay, but knowing it was a birthday we decided against it – we must reach Melbourne by Xmas! and at this rate we don’t even look like reaching the Border by then. Left Betty clutching a pineapple which I gave her from our supply and after a very pleasant interlude continued down the track.
Continued uneventfully until just before dark, decided to stop for tea while there was still some light and then to carry on for an hour or so towards Renner Springs where we planned to have one of their famous steaks for breakfast next morning. Pulled up at 11.20pm, mixed ourselves a mug of icy cold milo with a dash of rum, and so to bed.