The Great Southern Expedition :: Day 6
Thursday, 24 November
We packed up our roadside camp and drove the eight miles to Frewena by just after 9 am. It was already hot, and we piled into the bar for a cold drink before anything else – greeted by the host, who was wearing long white trousers and a large black beard – that’s all. We had a shower here, a good one, plenty of room to spread ourselves, and did our washing and draped it around the trees and bushes outside in our usual fashion. We filled up with water, petrol and oil (petrol 6/3 gal) and ourselves with more cold drinks and went on our way in a leisurely fashion about 11 am. This was a very hot day, and a 200 mile stretch ahead of us with nothing in between.
Helen drove the first 50 miles or so with hardly a bend in the road. We stopped at 12:30 for some iced water and a change of drivers. Kath had 3 bends in the road, passed two vehicles and some bulbous anthills – too much excitement for one person, so Helen came back to the wheel. The country now was even flatter than at the start of the day, cattle country, a long straight road, and not a tree or bush in sight.
About 3 pm we came to Sondan Station, right on the road, and with a large notice saying “This is Private Property – We sell nothing to travellers – Keep Out” – Inhospitable. However, just beyond the station was the Rankine River – it looked a bit doubtful, very think clay bottom, the water was so muddy it looked almost like milk. A couple of black boys appeared and said “Yes. Ok to swim in the river.” So very thankfully we struggled into bathes, and ate our lunch of pineapple and mangoes on the bank – then into the river regardless of mud and how wonderful it was – wide and deep and cool below the surface.
We left regretfully just after 4 pm, and on the road again still long and straight, the country bare and flat – cattle becoming more plentiful, past Avon Downs and on towards the border. The sun was just setting as we got there, a fitting moment to leave the Territory. We photographed the border and the sunset and Alfred crossing the border, and wished that our Tennant bottles of beer were cold enough to say farewell in a suitable manner. But they weren’t, this was the hottest day we’ve struck so far and all we had was a thirst, and regrets for leaving the Territory so we pushed on to Camooweal.
Came to it in darkness, it looked a deadish hole, but we found the pub, and piled in with raging thirsts – and the beer was vile – Cairns beer or something, but horrible. So was the bore water we discovered later. Put our watches on to Queensland time, and left Camooweal at 8:45 – didn’t think much of that town.
Drove on for about an hour before camping near the road, a hot night after a very, very hot day. And we’ve finally left the Territory – at one stage it looked as though we might never get away – and now we are wondering who is going to be the first one back.
Thursday, 24 November 1955
Ah wonderful! these early mornings. Woke at 5am, dozed on and off until about 6am, then arose. Wish I could always be so keen to be up and doing at home! Lit fire and had breakfast – Helen sleeps on in spite of the fact that I crash round, break sticks right near her and eventually this morning the smoke from the fire even failed to awaken her! What a sleeper! However we had all eaten and packed up by 9am, so off we set for Frewena and a shower. Very pleasant spot too. Received good reports of Queensland roads from traveller from the opposite direction so we are most hopeful of a good trip.
Left Frewena about 11am and continued down the unwinding, hot Barkly Highway. Every hour saw us stopping for cool drinks – lemonade and ice. We’re among the spinifex country now, nothing but spinifex and occasional belts of light scrub – and very hot. Took photos of anthills – different type from higher up the Track, also of the wide expanse of nothingness of Mitchell grass plain just before we reached Soudan – the Station on the Rankine River with the inhospitable notice – “This is private property – we sell nothing to travellers – KEEP OUT!” Nevertheless we had a swim in the River while eating our fruit lunch – for nothing!
Left Soudan (having dried off our washing) at 4.15pm. Our swim caused a small diversion for the native lads who swam with us, nice little chaps. On to Camooweal. Once more on the hot, thirsty Highway. Country has now opened up as we pass through miles and miles of Mitchell grass plains. First bright spot on the landscape was Avon Downs, but we did not call in. Pressed on to Camooweal after spending a short while at the Border, at sunset – a very nicely timed exit from the Territory – we all felt a little nostalgic saying farewell to the far North, and we all felt quite definitely that we’d be back!!
Made Camooweal by 7.10pm (N.T. time). Had our first Queensland beer (Cairns variety) not so good, so we switched to brandy lime and soda, and gin squash to quench our very extensive thirst. Left Camooweal 8.45pm (Qld. time) after refilling our water containers with that unbelievably vile bore water. Camped by roadside about 30 miles out. Had tea of hot tomato soup and tinned peaches – and once more to bed. Night was beautiful with quite a strong wind which successfully kept away mossies, flies etc. Catastrophe – our thermos (small one) crashed to the ground in the wind.